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 Post subject: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 8:26 pm 
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Most of J. Press's dress wear (Suits, Sport Coats and Blazers) has been made by S. Cohen in Canada for the last couple of decades. A precious few Canadian offerings have come from Empire. J. Press's Premium line has, primarily, been made by Southwick.

Rumor has it, that J. Press will be leaving Cohen and moving to Empire for much (most or all?) of their dress wear. I have long harumphed at J. Press's Cohen offerings. Nor have I been quiet about my disdain for S. Cohen's boxy shoulders and flat lapels to either J. Press Management or members of this Forum. Thus, I hope these rumors are true!

Empire, on the other hand, makes gorgeous Ivy Style dresswear. Empire is a key maker of O'Connell's suits, sport coats, and Blazers. I have become a VERY FREQUENT buyer of Empire's 3/2 roll, sack cut, full canvas, soft shoulder offerings over the last decade. Look at this soft-shouldered, undarted, sack sport coat with a dramatic lapel roll by Empire:

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You just won't find these gorgeous, Ivy Style, offerings from S. Cohen! Thus, I hope these rumblings are true!

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Last edited by Billax on Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 9:05 am 
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Billax, I agree completely with you.

Good move. Better waaaaay too late than never, I guess.

Press here in the states has allowed Cohen to damage their reputation among those who know the difference. Onward Kashiyama must have finally gotten around to actually taking a critical look at the terrible 1990s inspired shoulders still coming out of Montreal. The Japanese Ivy buyer would laugh at an S. Cohen shoulder.

It is strange that for a company which purports to maintain the classic Ivy heritage, central to which is the natural shoulder, Press offered some of the worst shoulders available.


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 10:53 am 
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Here's a picture I lifted from the MTM section of Empire's website Note the three types of shoulders they make in MTM. While all this stuff I've heard about J. Press switching OTR vendors from S. Cohen to Empire is hearsay (and therefore could be complete Hooey), you can see that a shoulder like the middle one would be great for off-the-rack jackets.

Image

I'm guessing we'll know the answer in the next week or so. I've got my fingers crossed.

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"... fashion wears out more apparel than the man."
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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 12:24 pm 
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I have no information on who made what but the website is live and this year's lineup looks like a winner.


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:53 pm 
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A recent article on a blog entitled "The Hogtown Rake" shows the author in one of J. Press' new Pressidential model sport coats. It is the same model that I ordered about a week ago and will be back from my tailor this Wednesday. Here's the pic:

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The author comments (in the associated article) that, "I recently picked up one of J. Press’s new Pressidential line sport jackets and am really pleased. The company found a new maker in the US who are able to replicate better than previous suppliers the traditional Ivy look: natural shoulders, lapped seams on the lapel* and centre back, single hooked vent, 3-roll-2, and shaped with only one small dart. This jacket is made in a soft, Italian-woven herringbone.
.
It’s been a long time since I bought a jacket off the rack but I was immediately impressed by how this one feels: it is comfortable and cozy without being huge and boxy. I do wish the armholes were higher but at least it is half-canvassed. I like it most of all because it doesn’t have a contemporary silhouette: it’s solidly old-fashioned without feeling vintage."

__________________________________
* I believe there is a grammatical error or usage mistake at this point. The term swelled edges should be used when referring to lapels.

The cut and the cloth look great to me and the comment that J. Press has found a new American supplier (in addition to Southwick) is a further sign that S. Cohen will soon be (or already is) history. As an aside, I'm a big fan of "Big bone" Herringbone, and in distinction to the bones of everyday-width wool herringbones at about a quarter of an inch, this baby's got 3/4" bones. It's bold!

Pictures soon.

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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:43 pm 
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Once again we are of the same mind. Now, whether I bought that when it first came out or just dropped by your tailor’s offices and picked it up early on your behalf, I’ll never tell....


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:19 pm 
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This is excellent news!

I stopped in to the Cambridge Press a few days ago (probably the first time in almost 2 years) and was actually surprised by the quality of the body and shoulders. The gent working was fairly young and I didn't want to bug him on details and then not buy anything, but I did notice several Made in The USA jackets that didn't appear to be Southwick.

I would say that whatever the particulars turn out to be, this finally brings Press back into the running for tailored goods. There were 3-4 jackets that I tried on that have me itching to go back and swipe the old Diners Club.


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:14 pm 
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Does anyone know who is the new US manufacturer for Press? The jacket and accompanying review look quite promising.


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:30 pm 
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Some pix of the Preesidential jacket from the new vendor. As I found out, the color of the jacket changes under different lighting conditions: mostly gray/white, but sometimes appearing as brown/white, and occassionlly as Steel blue and white. Here are a few pix:

Image

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It has a very nice hand and the half canvas construction gives it just the bit of rigidity where it needs it, within an overall casual appearance.

I'm very fond of it!

My apologies for the various lighting conditions. I chose an awkward location with a dramatic range of lighting conditions in a small space.

Here's the rundown:
• J. Press Pressidential 3/2 grey.taupe with white bold herringbone
• The Knottery OCBD
• Sam Hober Ancient Madder tie with a distinct "chalk hand."
• BB Cordovan belt
• J. Press flat front trousers
• BB OTC gray socks
• AE Manchester tassel loafers

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"... fashion wears out more apparel than the man."
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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:18 pm 
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Billax wrote:
Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:30 pm
Some pix of the Preesidential jacket from the new vendor.
That looks like a fantastic jacket--thanks for reporting back. I'll have to take a look at Press when the spring/summer stuff comes out (South Florida problems...)


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:43 pm 
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The new jackets are such a big improvement! You have another winner to add to your impressive collection of sport coats. Thank you for reporting on this and sharing the pictures, Billax.

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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 7:01 am 
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My wife and I were in NYC over the weekend, and I had to pop into Press and BB while I was there. As others have noted, Press has changed to Empire for most of their jackets and suits, resulting in a much more natural shoulder. I ended up buying a new navy blazer (one of the few things in the store that wasn't 25% off, unfortunately). Out-of-staters don't pay sales tax, however.

Here are a couple pics of the store windows.

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Here's one of BB. I found the display of historic school uniforms interesting, as well as the old co-branded Lacoste polo from the 50's.

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:25 am 
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I like Big-Bone jackets too. The one the guy is wearing, and Billax, looks about perfect.

If I start saving now I might have enough by this time next year.


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:59 am 
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^ Cool photos, Topsider. Thanks for posting.


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 Post subject: Re: Is J. Press swapping out Canada'e Cohen for Canada's Empire?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:01 pm 
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Have only had the one occasion to wear my navy seersucker suit, a recent pickup from the new EMPIRE made stuff, but I would highly recommend the stuff to anyone interested - and the sale is just starting to ramp up too

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Last edited by leisureclass on Wed Sep 26, 2018 9:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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