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 Post subject: What's left?
PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 2:33 pm 
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I was thinking about buying a few more shirts for the summer and it got me to thinking about how few options are actually left for purchasing new. Brooks seems to have taken itself somewhat out of the running by raising the price and getting rid of the traditional fit in the OCBDs. I believe their only sacks lefts are the navy and camel hair blazers.

Press has been getting a shrug from me on tailored goods.

Mercer seems to be plugging along.

Bills is crumbling apparently and Jack Donnely has taken a break from making pants.

O'Connell's seems to be sort of an anthology of what's still available.

Only shoes seem to be thriving.

Am I missing anything?


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2016 9:07 pm 
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Nice summary. Unfortunately, very accurate.

Personally, I think Mercer has been outdoing Brooks Brothers for a long time. Until recently, however, the price difference wasn't worth the quality difference. As of late, however, Mercer would be my choice over Brooks.

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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 8:21 am 
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TS - Agree. To me, the die-hard lost Brooks as an option with the recent move (even though on the face it seemed they were bringing back the classic version) as it made Mercer the clear choice in price as well. Apparently they're selling will, though, so most folks aren't going to go the semi-custom route.


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 11:56 am 
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I suppose that there are other places to mention, some of which require a less orthodox perspective on the look:

-The Andover Shop: I'm in Boston at least once per year, and I always go to The Andover Shop. The place fosters a nice, distinctive look, and the two-button sack is its house cut. It can be a bit expensive, but The Andover Shop has two seasonal sales during which almost everything in stock is 30% off. And it isn't as expensive as, say, Ben Silver or Cable Car Clothiers.

-Ben Silver: Expensive, though its Web site has a clearance section. Ben Silver doesn't seem to do sacks, favoring two-button darted jackets instead. But lots of stuff there is in good taste.

-Cable Car Clothiers: Expensive, but has some nice stuff, particularly if your tastes run to the British end of trad.

-Eddie Jacobs: A fine Baltimore clothier that doesn't have that much in the way of stock on the shelves, but everything's in good taste. Price-wise, it's in the neighborhood of J. Press. Most jackets and suits there are sacks.

-Wm. Fox: An expensive place in DC, but nice. They can do made-to-measure sacks.

Also, what about L.L. Bean chinos (which Trip has suggested he likes, and which I aim to try)? Or Paul Stuart (for the less orthodox and wealthier among us!)? Or Orvis? Or Leatherman?

I agree that the new BB OCBD is too expensive. But they can be had for 30% off at certain times in the year, with the corporate discount. I love the one Mercer shirt I own, but it is quite bulky on me, even with its reduced body size.


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 10:35 am 
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I didn't realize JD was in temporary shut down mode. Hopefully I didn't bankrupt them by getting so many free pairs through that linking program they used to have.

I would never pay full price for the new Brooks OCBD offering, but on sale they might be a good option.

Things that come to mind:
Ratio: https://www.ratioclothing.com/ - will do a 3.5" unlined collar, flap pocket, locker loop, all that kind of stuff, you just have to ask for them outside of the usual process (because most people aren't weird like us I guess)

Michael Spencer: http://www.michaelspencer.us/

Read Wall: http://www.readwall.com/pages/suits-sportcoats (this is presumably easier for those close to DC, but that's a Southwick made sack cut jacket)

Eljo's: https://www.eljos.com/store/

The knottery: http://knottery.com/products/staple-oxford-blue - USA made with a 3.75" (!!) soft collar


All that being said, no one has discussed vintage or secondhand. The majority of the things in my closet are not new, the bulk of my jackets/blazers/suits, at least 75% of my shirts, and all of my shoes were owned by someone else first.

This method takes patience, but it presents very high quality options at an excellent value. Not to mention the trendiness of things that we're interested in, from Brooks to Bean to J Press, is starting to wane and all should be had at increasingly better prices in the future. Now I realize not everyone lives in an area like I do, where quality items are somewhat common in thrift stores, this is where the ebay/etsy/mesnwear forum sales are crucial. Know your measurements, or your size in a common item, and go out there and dig. I can't tell you how many times I've gotten great prices on Brooks shirts on eBay for example, because the seller doesn't know they have a highly sought after item (at least, to the members of a community such as this).

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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 11:41 am 
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Excellent summation by all.

O'Connell's probably has the most comprehensive portfolio, and has done well for me as long as I steered away from the Canadian gear. Same with Press, but there it gets weird because the Asian imports work better for me.

Agreed, the footwear situation is very good if one is inclined to spend, as has always been the case for the best shoes. Rancourt, Alden, Quoddy, AE.

I have owned and liked Mercer, but they are too full for me. No question, it is a shirt done right though.

The recent tectonic upheaval in the historically stable bedrock of the Brooks OCBD is a concern, to some of us anyway-- not so much the new offering, but the inconsistencies, shrinking collar and slipping material & manufacturing quality of the existing goods. Not to mention the general freak show of their fashion items. The continental drift of that corporation continues, unfortunately.


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 12:35 pm 
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BB custom is another way to get Southwick's stuff, for at least $1,000 for a sportcoat and $1600 for a suit. They may be able to accommodate a lighter construction.

But you'd have to find the right SA and tailor.

*cough*


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 11:20 am 
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Updated Ivy stuff apparently available at Sid Mashburn:

http://www.ivy-style.com/southern-reviv ... acket.html


Anyone seen these in person? Look very nice, but perhaps too short and wide shouldered for me (being sort of tall and very narrow shouldered is a real pain in the @#$).

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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 5:38 pm 
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leisureclass wrote:
Updated Ivy stuff apparently available at Sid Mashburn:

http://www.ivy-style.com/southern-reviv ... acket.html


Anyone seen these in person? Look very nice, but perhaps too short and wide shouldered for me (being sort of tall and very narrow shouldered is a real pain in the @#$).

There is a Sid Mashburn store in D.C. I haven't been there, but I can take a look if anyone needs me to.


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 9:51 am 
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It'd be like sending our local correspondent!

(yes that was a newspaperman joke)

If you get a chance, it would be nice to get some additional perspective, thanks for offering

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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:19 pm 
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leisureclass wrote:
It'd be like sending our local correspondent!

(yes that was a newspaperman joke)

If you get a chance, it would be nice to get some additional perspective, thanks for offering
I'll see if I can get over there this weekend!


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:27 pm 
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I got the measurements on the new Sid Sack.

SNUG

Make no mistake - those are Italian sacks. Borrelli and similar brands have been making what we would consider a sack - though often with dual exhaust - for a long time. They're cut very slim with some considerable waist suppression built into the sides. From the measurements it would seem that these are the same. I would have to size up 2 chest sizes to have a hope of fitting in one.

Will that stop me from trying them on when I'm in DC this fall? No. It will not. Because they're otherwise mighty nice looking. Like everything cousin Sid does.


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:32 pm 
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On another note, I got my first Luxire try-on shirt. Absolutely impressed. I used the measurements I took from an old Brooks Brothers oxford and they nailed it. To the fraction of an inch. With a base price on the classic blue oxford of $69 and $15 shipping you're getting an absolutely custom shirt on your doorstep for $84. And they do a Mercer collar.

Highly recommended.


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 8:39 am 
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Trip English wrote:
I got my first Luxire try-on shirt. Absolutely impressed.
I am sure that the pictures you were going to share of this shirt are going to be posted soon. :D


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 Post subject: Re: What's left?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:05 am 
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^^ What's the process for getting the Mercer collar from Luxire? I take it that isn't the standard button down collar option

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