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 Post subject: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 9:09 pm 
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Wow.

This is the genuine article. I mean, the purest Ivy I have seen new – almost surreal, to be examining a new jacket that looked so much like vintage.

(For those who haven't heard of it, Tailor Caid is a Japanese Ivy repro brand, with a great motto: "We're not snobs, but we know a few simple rules.")

I stopped in at the Armoury today to ask for a job. No dice on that, but I did spend a bit of time chatting with the associates about this stuff. They say they don't really plan to sell the line outside of a trunk show, when the founder is in town. The sizing seems spot on, if a bit short – they gave me a regular size 44EU, and it fit like a 36S BB Milano (I haven't tried the Cambridge, but I presume it would be very similar) – so I presume bought true-to-size it would fit exactly like vintage Brooks, though the shoulder might run a bit wide.

Now, I don't know if their pattern falls apart when they scale it up, but I believe they're MTM-only so it's not like the Japanese-length jackets would be an issue.

But in terms of shape, drape, and shoulder, this is leagues ahead of the J. Press Canadians. I'm not sure how much it costs – probably quite a bit, since it's full-canvass and the cloth is very carefully selected, but if you want cost-is-no-object, still-cheaper-than-a-time-machine Ivy, you know where to go.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 9:18 pm 
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Good I-S article about the trunk show, below. The stuff looks amazing, no doubt. All the right details, minus the hook vent, but BB doesn't do that either so I don't think anyone would see that as a problem. Unfortunately $2800 is out of my price range! Absolutely beautiful jackets, though.

http://www.ivy-style.com/tailor-caid-ja ... d-man.html


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:02 pm 
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A few months back I walked into a trunk show the Armoury did at a shop here in town hoping to find some Tailor Caid stuff, but sadly they only had their usual European fare. That being said, it was raining that day so turn out was low, and it was fun to check out the (as RMP rightly points out) really really expensive stuff and chat with the salesmen and get free drinks. I must have spent 45 minutes or an hour chatting with Jake (the redheaded gentleman you've seen in a thousand photos on the internet) about anything and everything. He seemed genuinely excited that I'd heard of the sale on PTO, complimented my thrifted Huntington jacket, and was very interested in the handy-down from my grandpa pocket square I was wearing (he even had me take it out of my pocket to check it out).

I totally support TC in theory (and who doesn't love that slogan?), but in practice, I don't think I'll be making a purchase anytime soon.

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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 3:38 pm 
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As a long time dabbler in the Italian Sartorial Sciences, I can tell you that finding our few key jacket details outside traditional American brands is MUCH easier than within them. Soft sloped shoulders, even in some British makes, have become almost standard. The 3/2 roll seems to be standard on 7/10 of the Italian jackets I encounter. These are not "fashion" jackets with odd lengths and overly suppressed waists, but well proportioned jackets that will outlive whatever current trends in fit are dictating.

So the point is that if I put on a Boglioli, or Borrelli, or LBM 1911 jacket and stand 25 feet away you'd be hard pressed to tell whether it came from Milan in 2016 or Yale in 1964. If I turned around the dual vents would probably give away the game, but I decided what I like in a fit a long time ago and even though most of the details seem to be canonical to the Ivy Style they're scarcely available in the modern collection of purveyors.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 4:14 pm 
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Trip English wrote:
I decided what I like in a fit a long time ago and even though most of the details seem to be canonical to the Ivy Style they're scarcely available in the modern collection of purveyors.
A thinking man's way of solving the availability problem, Trip. It makes good sense.

It is also an accurate, critical commentary of the state of current Press with overdone shoulders, and Brooks with pleats, darts, and general weirdness.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 6:03 pm 
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rmpmcdermott wrote:
Good I-S article about the trunk show, below. The stuff looks amazing, no doubt. All the right details, minus the hook vent, but BB doesn't do that either so I don't think anyone would see that as a problem. Unfortunately $2800 is out of my price range! Absolutely beautiful jackets, though.

http://www.ivy-style.com/tailor-caid-ja ... d-man.html
That's about a G more than I thought it oughtta be.

And Trip, I take roughly the same approach – the gestalt should be Ivy, but the details don't have to be.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 9:02 pm 
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Youthful Repp-robate wrote:
rmpmcdermott wrote:
Good I-S article about the trunk show, below. The stuff looks amazing, no doubt. All the right details, minus the hook vent, but BB doesn't do that either so I don't think anyone would see that as a problem. Unfortunately $2800 is out of my price range! Absolutely beautiful jackets, though.

http://www.ivy-style.com/tailor-caid-ja ... d-man.html
That's about a G more than I thought it oughtta be.

And Trip, I take roughly the same approach – the gestalt should be Ivy, but the details don't have to be.
I agree with YRR and Trip's comments totally. It just happens that undarted sack jackets fit my figure best. I need as little waist suppression as possible. All the other details like swelled lapel edges, single hook vents, lapped seems, 3/2 button stance are simple stylistic preferences. I just really like the way they look. Not all my jackets have hook vents, not all of them have patch pockets. Though it is pretty sharp when all the details come together.

And there are variations, of course. I love the Ivy look of the mid-late 50s more than the early-mid 60s. I prefer a wider lapel (~3.5") and a fit where the chest and waist are just about the same measurement. I also don't mind a little bit of structure to the shoulder as long as it isn't in Air Force territory, which is why I don't mind some of Press' Cohen jackets, mostly the ones from the Pressidential line (though some are pretty bad). My Press Robert Noble tweed has some structure to the shoulders, but I don't mind it at all.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:09 am 
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I also agree with Trip's point. I have a Ralph Lauren tweed that I got of the Exchange on AAT, the thing has the most amazing shoulders, triple patch pockets, swelled edges, etc. etc. - BUT it's darted. In this interesting way the overall floppiness and total lack of structure to it plays against darts and makes it feel like I'm wearing a sack jacket (or a cardigan for that matter).

I am surprised though Trip, that you say these labels you mention aren't fashion forward. Granted, I've never had the chance to try on jackets by any of these labels (I wouldn't know where to find them), but when I've seen measurements online most Italian labels seem to measure short in overall length and wide in the shoulders. Could you possibly provide a more specific example of what you're talking about?

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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:38 am 
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LC - Ralph is actually where I started with the whole Italian thing. He's been peddling an Italian silhouette in traditional American fabrics for decades now. I don't recall where I got my first RL jacket, but the fit was so flattering that it clarified what was important in a jacket. Over time it was easy to hunt down RL on sale or eBay and I don't like having more than 6-8 sport coats anyways so I didn't really have to look further.

Then about a year ago an architect I'm friends with was wearing a jacket that put even RL to shame. Turned out it was Boglioli, which I'd always assumed that same things about (super small, super slim, etc.)

Well I basically know nothing about different lines and cuts in any of these brands. It's all been trial and error, but most of the jackets I've tried on in my actual chest size have either fit wonderfully or - believe it or not - been too big! The lengths are to the bottom of my thumb knuckle, the waist is fine, and shaping is minimal. As LC said about his RL, they sort of fit like shawl collar cardigans - which is always how I imagine the perfect sack jacket fitting.

As an example - my most recent Boglioli purchase was this sport coat below with the name "Coat" that seems to be the style of this particular jacket. It's ENORMOUS. It's far roomier and longer than even the Madison cut in the same size. It's going to get flipped on the 'Bay shortly. Live and learn.

Image

None of these coats have any lining in the body and are basically just panels of super soft wool/cashmere sewn together. The collars always roll nicely (something most US/CA brands can't seem to figure out) and the shoulder seam is further up and the sleeve head is such that it doesn't constrict across the back and shoulders, but the sleeve head is where the shoulder slopes rather than the seam being located right at the shoulder and causing a boxiness even when there's little to no padding. All of these things seem like a standard part of the current Italian tailoring lexicon where American forgot about them 40-50 years ago.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:44 am 
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So I tried to do a google image search and I had to scroll down pretty far to find a picture that seems to reflect how these jackets seem to fit. It looks like a combination of some lines that are genuinely fashion fits, but also a lot of sizing down. This pic is about how they fit if you stick to your normal chest size:

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:59 pm 
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Tailor Caid has run a blog for a few years. It used to be on my RSS feed. They used to post customer's wearing their purchases but I think they're more scripted now, with more "The Armoury" style marketing and less, "cheap digital camera and some people wearing our products", which I found charming in it's own way.


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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 10:20 am 
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^ That second example is fantastic, it looks maybe a touch short, but other than that it looks great.

Along with the RL tweed I have a Vetra jacket that I picked up at one of those Unionmade sales for very cheap. It's sort of like a hybrid between a blazer and a Bill Cunningham jacket, totally unstructured, pack pockets, 3/2. Would love to find some more floppy jackets, so I'll have to check out some of this Italian stuff.

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 Post subject: Re: Tailor Caid
PostPosted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 3:30 pm 
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Unionmade is a great place to look for this sort of unstructured jacket if you are not worried about all of the details. Even if you are there are a few brands they carry that will check them such as Beam + and Golden Bear. I also like that they include the specific measurements.

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