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 Post subject: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 5:32 pm 
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http://www.ivy-style.com/brooks-introdu ... xford.html

For more than the cost of a Mercer...


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 6:42 pm 
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Yeah, I saw that. I'd never pay $140 for a shirt, personally.

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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 7:56 pm 
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Funny, if you had just told me they had just fixed the collars I'd be very happy. Raising the list price by 50% and removing the pocket kills the shirt for me. Guess I'll be buying from Ratio or Mercer. It will be interesting to see how much they'll discount them in their 4 for $xxx sales.


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 8:47 pm 
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It's great that BB is getting the OCBD back to some semblance of its past glory, but I still like my Press OCBD's better. I know the collar points don't roll like a Mercer, but they're made in the USA, they fit me well and I have a soft spot for the flap pocket. Good enough for me. Plus they're $30 cheaper than the new Brooks OCBDs.


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 11:01 am 
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^Interesting, I've never been truly happy with a Press shirt, OCBDs or Pinpoints. Don't get me wrong, I love the look of the flap pocket, but the collars in my experience are STIFF and never quite right.

All these complaints about price are warranted I suppose, but who ever pays full freight at Brooks, for anything? I think I have maybe once, and it was because I was in a pinch time wise (and it was a formal bow tie, not OCBDs)

The thing that concerns me most about these is that the collar in the photos doesn't look right to my eye, it looks too small. This could be paranoia I suppose, but after pages and pages of argument on TOF and daily posts on Ivy Style, nobody seems to be talking about this issue. Has anyone said anything official about a collar measurement?

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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 11:39 am 
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^ I find that after a few washes the Press collars soften up a bit. They don't get super soft, but I like them somewhere in between anyway. I could see how that could be a sticking point for some people, though.


Last edited by rmpmcdermott on Thu Jan 14, 2016 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 12:19 pm 
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Ignoring economics, it looks like two steps forward (collar point length & unlined collar) and one step back (chest pocket eliminated.)

If the pocket is a non-issue to you, then the shirt is likely a positive, with two significant improvements.

Most, however, will factor the economics, which therefore introduces an increased cost factor requiring justification of said improvements, as well as increased consideration of the additional direct competition within the new sector this shirt now occupies.

Coulda' been a huge boost among the traditional BB customers had Brooks just announced: "New, slightly extended, unlined collars! All else the same, carry on."


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 12:24 pm 
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leisureclass wrote:
The thing that concerns me most about these is that the collar in the photos doesn't look right to my eye, it looks too small. This could be paranoia I suppose
Yeah LC, I notice that too. I hope it is just clothing photo staging personnel who tie huge knots. But if the collar points on this new shirt turns out to not be extended a bit..... BB is going to really get some bad press.


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 5:42 pm 
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Ensiferous wrote:
Ignoring economics, it looks like two steps forward (collar point length & unlined collar) and one step back (chest pocket eliminated.)
A first-hand report from across the street seems to indicate that the collar point length has not been improved.

This "new" shirt might merely be one of material reductions (remove the pocket, remove the lining) and an increase in price. We will see....


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 5:48 pm 
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GQ, of all places, has confirmed that the collar point length has not changed. And they cite that as a good thing.

"The good news is that the shirt's silhouette hasn't been tampered with. It still features the same button-down collar, with the same spread, and same point length."

http://www.gq.com/story/brooks-brothers ... wn-release


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:06 pm 
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I'd really like to know the behind-the-scenes thinking at BB behind the "retooling" of its OCBD. I keep scratching my head and can't quite figure this out. I'm glad I've got a pretty good supply of the previous must-iron OCBD iteration (with another one on the way from the exchange).


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:17 pm 
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GQ likes it? :?


Reuben reminded me that it will have MOP buttons. Not a big issue for be either way, but it will be to some for whom resin gives an advantage.


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 8:24 pm 
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Although I like the unlined collar and cuffs--and the idea of a slim-fitting OCBD with these details--I also like a pocket. The price increase is steep, but I suppose comparable shirts from Mercer and O'Connell's are expensive too. Perhaps I'll pick up a few of the old OCBDs at Brooks while they're still around...


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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 10:24 am 
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Thanks RMP! Collar length was also confirmed and the shirt was positively reviewed in today's Ivy Style update

Odds are I'll pick up a few next December 26th (not that I need any more shirts)

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 Post subject: Re: Brooks Brothers New Old Collar
PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 10:51 am 
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There certainly seems to be some hazy half-realized notion that there's a segment of their clientele that don't want to look like Norwegian Exchange Students, but they can't seem to help themselves in fussing with the old product. They issue sack suits that alienate younger buyers and sack stalwarts. Now they jack up the price of the shirts and remove the pocket - which (I could be completely wrong) was canonical as far as our club went. Somebody inside needs to develop a skunkworks that just puts out the classics. Soft shouldered sacks in the Madison cut, OCBDs with unlined collars at $75, chinos without the ChemSlax® treatment. Seems like with all the other money they flush down the toilet with their malarky they could scrape together the money to just keep on making what they already made.


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